St Mary's Basilica in Krakow - A Sacred Space filled with Golden Stars

Sitting in Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s large market square, you can’t help but be impressed by the tall beauty of the Church of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven also known as St. Mary’s Basilica. 

According to chronicler Jan Dlugosz the first parish church at the Main Square in Kraków was founded in 1221–1222 by the Bishop of Krakow, Iwo Odrowaz. The church was destroyed during the Mongol invasion of Poland. Between 1290–1300 a second Early Gothic church was built on the remaining foundations.

The church was completely rebuilt under the reign of Casimir III (the Great) between 1355 and 1365.  The vault (originally built in 1395) collapsed and was rebuilt. The presbytery was elongated and tall windows added. The nave was completed in 1395–97 and the new vault was constructed. 

At the same time the northern tower was torn down and rebuilt to serve as the watch tower for the entire city. In 1478 the helmet on the tower was added. A gilded crown was placed on it in 1666, which is still present today.

In the first half of the 15th century, the side chapels were added.

In the 18th century, the interior was rebuilt in the Late Baroque style. All 26 altars, equipment, furniture, benches and paintings were replaced and the walls were decorated with painting by the artist Andrzej Radwański.

In the years 1887–1891, additional neo-Gothic design was introduced into the Basilica.

Though the layers of beauty added throughout the centuries are impressive and make this basilica into a virtual jewel box, in my opinion, the most spectacular part of this fabulous interior are the star covered ceiling vaults, where a golden array of stars shine from a deep royal blue field.

The highlight of this fabulous interior, is the Altarpiece of Veit Stoss, which is the largest Gothic altarpiece in the world and a national treasure of Poland. The altarpiece was carved between 1477 and 1489 by the German sculptor Veit Stoss (Wit Stwosz) who lived in Krakow from about 1477–1497.

Interestingly, a few weeks prior to the outbreak of the WWII and German occupation, the Poles took the altar apart and dispersed it across the country.  Unfortunately, the crates were found and the Altarpiece was confiscated by a Nazi unit called the Sonderkommando Paulsen and transported to the Third Reich. The panels were also found and sent to Germany. They were put in the basement of the Nuremberg Castle. The altar survived the war in spite of heavy bombardment of Nuremberg. 

The magnificent altarpiece was fortunately discovered by Count Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, of the Polish 1st Armored Division, and returned to Poland in 1946 where it presides behind the high altar of the opulent and impressive sacred space of St. Mary’s Basilica to this day.

There is  particularly interesting footnote to the history of St. Mary's.  On every hour, a trumpet signal called the Hejnal Mariacki "Saint Mary's Dawn"; a traditional, five-note Polish anthem closely bound to the history and traditions of the capital, Kraków.  It is played from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers and the plaintive tune breaks off in mid-stream, to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter, who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city.  Try to be in the square to hear this unique bell toll! 

Learn more about visiting St. Mary's Basilica in Krakow, Poland